Our friend Céline takes us on a tour of her favorite neighborhood: Exarchia in Athens. History, walks and good addresses: she tells us everything, far from the clichés that usually exist about this district.
It’s true that the Exarchia district of Athens isn’t one of the “top 10” or one of the “must-sees”… well, never mind, let’s get off the beaten track and venture into this district that won’t leave you indifferent. And that’s what travel’s all about: letting yourself be surprised!
“In Athens, without pretension, Exarcheia has a bad reputation…”
Exarchia, the rebel
Exarcheia’s turbulent history gives the neighborhood its unique identity and reputation for political activism. Its history is studded with political and social events directly linked to the history of Athens and Greece.
Its role in the Greek civil war of December 1944, the student revolt against the military junta at the École Polytechnique, and the riots during the economic crisis put this district at the heart of resistance and alternative culture for anarchists, anti-authoritarians, leftists and ecologists. The area is also sometimes seen as a lawless zone (where the police are not welcome). Exarchia is also known for its violence… and its self-management initiatives.
In reality, far from the tourist areas, riots are rare. And this bastion between Lycabettus Hill and the Acropolis often takes on the air of a bohemian village, out of time because, ironically, its bad reputation now protects it…
Did you know? The neighborhood is called Exarchia after a local who ran a grocery store at the junction of Themistokleous and Solomou streets.
Céline P.
Exarchia in Athens, at the heart of the capital’s history
The National Museum of Archaeology
The Exarchia district of Athens was first developed in the 1870s, following the construction of the National Museum of Archaeology and the Athens Polytechnic University. Neoclassical townhouses from the late 19th and early 20th centuries still line the pedestrian streets of Exarchia, a reminder of this originally bourgeois district.
The military junta
Following a coup d’état on April 21, 1967, Greece plunged into a military dictatorship. The student uprising at Athens Polytechnic on November 17, 1973 marked the beginning of the end of this military junta.
The riots of the 2000s
Exarcheia has a history of clashes between militants, anarchists and police. More recently, one of these clashes resulted in the death of 15-year-old Alexandros Gigoropoulos, who was shot dead by the police. It was December 6, 2008.
Exarchia the variegated
Everything in Exarcheia is colorful, singular and painted.
Exarchia in Athens: a popular district today, it’s also home to intellectuals, artists and many students, often leftists or anarchists, as well as migrants.
This is also where most of Athens’ printers, publishers, booksellers, record shops, cybercafés and organic grocery stores are located.
On Saturday mornings, the sloping street of Kallidromiou is transformed into one of Athens’ finest markets (laiki), with stacks of fresh fruit and vegetables from Greek growers, arranged under orange tarpaulins. The crowd is a strange mix of young and old Athenians, artists, migrants and people.
The neighborhood’s multicultural, daring and politicized atmosphere leaves plenty of room for spontaneous expression on the streets. Urban spaces are covered with tags, scribbles, posters…but also a place for artistic expression that skilfully reflects the socio-political issues of the time.
It’s all around the area not far from street Tzavella that you can discover the greatest works of street art.
The messages are strong and the artistic level is worthy of the greatest street-art cities.
Expressions: collage, paint, spray paint
Navarinou Park
In 2009, outraged by plans to develop a former parking lot, the residents of Exarchia occupied the space and set up the first self-managed park. But the park’s main attraction is its greenery. Hard to miss: just look for a spectacular graffiti from its history, by Italian street artist Blu.
The sleeping princesses of Sonké
Strolling through Exarchia in Athens, you’re sure to come across one of Sonké’s works. Bewitching silhouettes with swirling, intriguing hair.
Exarcheia is my oxygen bubble in Athens.
Sonké
Committed art
Emblematic Exarcheia street art by WD.
Great mastery of perspective, reminding us not only of difference but also of compassion.
Exarchia, the sleeping beauty
The area beyond Exarcheia Square is characterized by a labyrinth of pedestrian streets of undeniable charm. Accompanied by birdsong, lose yourself in the tree-lined lanes and neoclassical houses reminiscent of the greek film La Belle Athènes (Η ωραία των Αθηνών). Let your gaze wander, and you’ll be surprised by terraces and courtyards bathed in a poetic atmosphere.
You’ll discover a unique way of life in Athens.
The main streets now have post-war apartment buildings… the second stage in the district’s urban development.
The neighborhood has many faces, many wounds and a lot of history. And while it has become synonymous with freedom of expression, like a tightrope walker, it often teeters between decadence and charm, ugliness and beauty.
It’s true, however, that this area is made up of pedestrian lanes where vegetation flourishes around small houses or neoclassical buildings just waiting to be restored.
Its geographical location is one of the most enviable. Just five minutes from the city center, it’s also the ideal place to get out of the capital’s often jam-packed traffic.
Good addresses in Exarchia
Taverns
AMA LACHEI
Beautiful restaurant with a lovely courtyard, surrounded by trees. His dishes are meticulously prepared and he reinvents traditional cuisine.
Kallidromiou 69
Tel: +30 21 0384 5978
YIANTES
Yiantes is a renowned Greek restaurant in Athens. Delicious dishes inspired by seasonal Greek cuisine and organic produce.
Valtetsiou 44
Tel: +30 21 0330 1369
AVLI
Small restaurant frequented mainly by Greeks. Fresh cuisine in a pretty courtyard in Exarchia
43 rue Methonis
Té : +30 21 0383 8167
Laure M.
The bars
FRUMEL
A vintage tavern featuring products from small producers.
Enjoy pure Greek food and drink with lots of Rock n Roll music.
Mavromichalis 59
Tel: +30 21 0512 5068
WAREHOUSE
For a New York vibe. It boasts an extremely tempting cocktail list and a vibrant atmosphere.
Valtetsiou 21
tel: +30 215 540 8002
Open-air cinemas in Exarchia
The films are often in English
THE VOX
Themistokleous 82
Open-air cinema showing old films on the roof of a building furnished with garden chairs.
CINEMA RIVIERA
Valtetsiou 46
Nestled in a lush green space, this picturesque open-air cinema shows classic films.
*****
Thanks to Céline P. for showing us the Exarchia district of Athens as she likes it.
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