The metro Metaxourgeio (Metaxourghio or Metaxourgio) is just one station away from Omonia, so this area is very central! Rather unknown to tourists who prefer the popular areas of Psiri or Monastiraki, Metaxourgeio is currently one of the trendiest areas of the capital! We invite you to discover the “must” of the Athenian parties. An unusual, lively and authentic place. You won’t be disappointed with the trip to Metaxourgio, this neighborhood near the center of Athens!
The story of a neighborhood in decline
Since its creation, Metaxourghio has been a popular neighborhood. Located on the outskirts of the new capital of the young Greek state, it first housed a silk manufacturing factory in the mid-19th century. Hence its name which means “silk factory”. The speculations about a possible extension of the city and prestigious buildings (royal palace, administrations) on that side of Athens having been abandoned, the district was finally invested by craftsmen and workers.
Place of exit of the Athenians during the years ’30, with the decline of the craft industry and the industry, the place has gradually degraded. The old neoclassical houses have fallen into ruin, the factories and workshops have been deserted.
Until a few years ago, Metaxourgeio was one of the worst neighborhoods in the capital! Closed houses and drugs constituted the usual decor, in the middle of the few Athenians remaining on the spot, for lack of better!
The emergence of a festive district
Fortunately, things are changing. Artists, writers, people nostalgic for Athenian authenticity, and even political figures began to take an interest in this historic neighborhood so close to the city center. Street art, cafes and bars in open courtyards, restaurants in neoclassical houses, live music and trendy theaters, constitute the current face of this neighborhood with a thousand facets. Thanks to its rehabilitation, the establishment of theaters, restaurants and unusual bars, the district is now a must for Athenian outings.
Everything is organized around the Avdi square (Leon Avdis, communist deputy and city councilor of Athens), 7 minutes walk from the metro Metaxourgio, separated in two parts by Leonidou street. A green square, surrounded by bars, cafes and restaurants. A playground also occupies the middle, testifying to the mixed nature of the Athenian neighborhoods. The old silk factory occupies the northwestern part of the square and houses the Municipal Gallery of Athens. The 19th century building designed by Danish architect Christian Hansen has been beautifully restored. It now includes a permanent exhibition section and rooms dedicated to temporary art exhibitions.
Some good addresses …
The “Blue Parrot” (Μπλε Παπαγάλος) was the first all-day bar in Avdi Square. In the shade of the trees, on the wrought iron chairs, you can quietly sip a coffee during the day or a cocktail in the evening.
Just next door, in a courtyard set up in the middle of an old collapsed building, street food and draft beer at “Galiandra” (γαλιαντρα).
Several other restaurants and bars complete the casual and now gentrified setting of the square (Seychelles / Σεϋχέλλες, The rooster’s egg / Το αυγό του κόκκορα…).
At number 20 of the small alley Sfaktirias, we noticed a small mezze restaurant called Cachou. We also discovered that the owner is French, living in Athens for 14 years. This explains the endives and the Bearnaise sauce in the middle of the Greek or international dishes on its menu.
But in this amazing district is also hidden a gastronomic restaurant with several distinctions: Aleria, at 57 Megalou Alexandrou Street, in a restored neoclassical house. It is here and in a warm atmosphere that the chef Ghikas Xenakis revisits Greek dishes with brio. Original formula with a choice of 5 or 6 courses accompanied by Greek wines. Very nice experience.
Metaxourgeio, a neighborhood full of surprises
It is thus between the streets Kolokynthous, Keramikou, Plateon, Megalou Alexandrou that beats the heart of this original district. Then, the animation extends towards Gazi and in the adjacent lanes. In the evening, the subdued lights and the no-frills atmosphere of the bars give Metaxourghio an intimate, informal character, which encourages exchanges.
Don’t hesitate to venture into the tiny dead end, the pedestrian streets, and even into the houses that look abandoned… Sometimes we have surprises!
Also, look upstairs, beautiful examples of street art decorate the gables. And in the walls, we often find small works of art embedded.
During the period of the Carnival (the dates change from year to year, since it is a mobile festival), the neighborhood comes alive with spontaneous, lively festivities. It is said to be the most revolutionary carnival in the city! Indeed, the new inhabitants of Metaxourghio and the alternative Athenians flock to the streets dancing in the craziest outfits!
Cultural minute …
Plateon Street is our favorite! For its history but also for its quirky side! This street is located on the ancient route of Iera Odos, which connected Eleusis to the Acropolis in ancient times. On this line and in the continuity of the site of Kerameikos was located the Demossio Sima, the cemetery of the eminent Athenians and the heroes of war. It is believed that the tomb of Perikles is on this site. In any case it is there that he would have pronounced his Epitaph, his great speech considered as the foundation of the Athenian democracy. A small square without any pavement marks this site at the intersection of Salaminos, Leonidou and Plateon streets. Archaeological excavations are planned for the years to come…
As a bonus, here are some other favorites
Just opposite, at the corner Leonidou-Plateon, we make a jump in time to find the famous souvlakia of Elvis! A real institution in the area. No tables, a small counter outside but a very nice atmosphere under the covers of the King’s vinyls hanging from the ceiling to enjoy a skewer before continuing the journey …
Besides, just next door, the Kerameion bar (Plateon 27) attracts the young (and not so young) in a warm and unexpected space.
A little further on, we love the Kafeneio Sabir (Plateon 18). We enter in a big courtyard covered with an enormous tree. We don’t really know if we are inside or outside, in a restaurant, a cafe or a house… But you can eat excellent mezzes accompanied by tsipouro of Tyrnavos.
Finally, even if you don’t speak Greek, take a little walk down Akadimos Street. The beautiful Metaxourghio and Apo Mihanis theaters are housed in old workshops typical of the neighborhood.
To conclude, the cultural life of the capital is also in full swing in Métaxourghio. An authentic district that is a must-see!
Evi S.
Want to discover the neighborhoods around Metaxourghio? Take a look at our articles on neighborhoods:
