If you’re looking for something quiet and off the beaten track, we recommend a trip to Vravrona (also known as Brauron), some 40km east of Athens. Here, in a verdant, bucolic setting, you’ll find the remains of a sanctuary once dedicated to Artemis, as well as a museum displaying some magnificent pieces.
Vravrona(Brauron) is lost in the countryside, amid vineyards and fig fields. It may not be spectacular, but it’s a very pleasant visit, away from the crowds and tourist buses. Very different from other Athenian archaeological sites, the sanctuary has the added advantage of being cool thanks to the presence of a spring. We recommend you go early in the morning (the site is closed in the afternoon anyway) and see the shrine first, followed by the museum.
The Artemis sanctuary at Vravrona (Brauron)
This sanctuary is said to have been built by Agamemnon’s daughter Iphigenia in honor of Artemis, the goddess of wilderness and hunting, and protector of expectant mothers during childbirth and of newborn babies. It was guarded by young priestesses called “the Little Bears” (the bear was, along with the hind, one of the two sacred animals associated with Artemis). And every four years, the “Brauronia” festival was held here: a major pilgrimage in honor of Artemis. Young girls aged between five and 10, dressed in saffron-colored dresses, performed a dance reminiscent of a bear’s gait. And the party ended with the sacrifice of a bear.
The remains unearthed at Vravrona (Brauron) date back to 420 BC. However, the sanctuary was built on a site already occupied in the Neolithic period. Certain ruins confirm the existence of earlier buildings.
Today, you can see :
- The small chapel of Agios Georgios (Saint George), closed
- A rock identified as Iphigenie’s tomb
- The temple’s foundations
- And finally, the 12 columns of the Little Bears’ Parthenon, where the young priestesses performed their dance.
Vravrona Museum (Brauron)
Vravrona’s museum isn’t very big, but it does have some very fine exhibits. The finds on display here give an idea of the past majesty of the Artemis sanctuary. What’s more, the museography is interesting, simple and clear.
The museum at Vravrona (Brauron) displays a variety of finds from the Artemis sanctuary and the surrounding area: vases dating from the 9th century BC, offerings jewelry, bas-reliefs, everyday objects, etc.
The most beautiful pieces in the museum are undoubtedly the statues representing the “Little Bears”, which are surprisingly well preserved.
A family of devotees has just arrived at the sanctuary to sacrifice a goat to Artemis. The goddess, with her beloved doe standing beside her, is seated on a rock, wearing a long chiton and sandals. The young man leading a goat for sacrifice is followed by family members and a servant carrying a box on his head.
To extend your day around Vravrona (Brauron)
Vravrona (Brauron) is a place we like. We like to take family and friends there when they come to visit us in Athens. After a visit to the temple and museum, we opt, depending on the day’s mood, either for lunch in a good fish taverna or for a moment of relaxation on the beaches of Porto Rafti.
- lunch at the Artemis tavern: at 1km from the Vravrona Museum, this tavern, also known as Taverna Alexander, is located just beyond the tennis courts of the Hotel DOLCE. We sit on the terrace facing the sea and enjoy extra-fresh fish and seafood. The friendly owner will take you straight to the kitchen to choose the day’s fish.
- a swim on the beaches of Porto Rafti: to round off the day with a touch of idleness, there’s nothing like a swim on Avlaki beach in Porto Rafti (about ten kilometers from the Vravrona museum). A pretty cove with turquoise waters, ideal for families.
How to visit Vravrona
- Admission to the site (temple + museum) is very reasonable: €3 in winter, €6 in summer.
- The site and museum are open every day except Tuesday, from 8:30 am to 3:30 pm. Schedules are subject to change, so check the official website before travelling.
- Closed on January 1, March 25, May 1, Easter Sunday, December 25 and 26
- To reach the Artemis sanctuary, park in the museum parking lot, buy tickets inside the museum, then take a short dirt track for about 500 meters.
- Allow around 1h30 to visit the temple and museum.
- The quickest and easiest way to get to Vravrona is by car. Google Maps. You can easily rent a car by the day, for a reasonable price, by visiting RentalCars, for example. Alternatively, take the metro (line 3) to the Nomismatokopeio stop. From there, take bus no. 304 to Vravrona, and finish by cab (about ten minutes).
Laure M.
