A small glass of ouzo, a plate of colored mezzes, the blue of the sea in front of the eyes, it is the flavors of the Greek summer. Cliché? Maybe, but frankly, can we dissociate Greece from its sea and its summer?
Sweetness of life, authenticity and simplicity
This summer, wonderfully described by Jacques Lacarrière, keeps today, in a very different context, its character of always. It is a sweet mixture of sweetness of life, simplicity, sharing and authenticity. The summer meal is an integral part of it because it mobilizes the five senses and gives a feeling of total well-being.
In this country, with 15,000 km of coastline and 3,000 islands and islets, it is not difficult to be by the sea. And that’s how, with your feet in the water, you can better enjoy the culinary treasures of each region. I propose you today a tour of Greece to discover typical and sometimes unusual specialties.
The mezzes of the sea: sardines and octopus
In Mytilene, in the bay of Kalloni, the best sardines of the country are caught. Here we find canned salted fillets, strong mezzes, which are perfectly matched with the fragrant ouzo of the island. In the taverns of Kalloni or Molyvos, they are prepared stuffed with capers, parsley and garlic with a little breadcrumbs and then grilled in the oven. In early summer, they are sometimes cooked in a fresh vine leaf, which delicately flavors the fish.
On the other side of the Aegean Sea, at the end of the Magnesia peninsula, for 300 years, a small paved pathway has led from Trikeri to the small port of Aghia Kyriaki. Remote villages, to the point where the only possible connection until 20 years ago was the sea. Nowadays, you can enjoy delicious grilled octopus, octopus croquettes, pickled sea fennel, accompanied by the local tsipouro. But it is the karavidomakaronada (pasta with scampi) which is the main dish of the area, prepared with scampi caught on the spot.
Rustic mezzes from the Cyclades: chickpeas, cheese and cold cuts
In the Cyclades, despite the development of tourism, the culinary traditions remain well established. In this postcard setting, you can enjoy simple but tasty mezzes, even in summer. Examples are chickpea dumplings in Sifnos, parsley salad in Syros, capers with tomato in Serifos, sea urchin salad in Paros, not to mention the delicious cheeses of Naxos and the loutza, a typical delicatessen of Myconos. To be accompanied by a white wine, dry and fresh, with the scent of the volcanic earth of Santorini.
Contrasting flavors in the Ionian Islands
Taking a big leap over the mainland, we find ourselves in the Ionian Islands. Warm seas with emerald color, striking contrast between soft sandy beaches and steep cliffs. The cuisine of these islands also likes to marry contrasting flavors. Pasta, fish, quince, beef cooked in broth, with the ardor of garlic, the acidity of vinegar, the strength of cold cuts.
Smoked flavors in the Peloponese cuisine
In the southern part of mainland Greece, in the peninsula of Mani, a generous sea surrounds a the most arid and wild land of the country. At the bottom of the bay of Limeni, the boats bring every day fish cooked at once. In Gythio you can find perhaps the best grilled octopus. And for meat lovers, in the Magne you can find the best synglino. It is pork meat smoked over a wood fire, flavored with sage. It is often served with orange slices.
Cretan cuisine with strong flavors
The village of Sfakia, in Crete, is really at the “end” of the country. The Libyan sea opens up before our eyes, we expect to see a pirate ship in the open sea. At our back, the Lefka Ori, the Greek White Mountains, wild and arid. It is here that the famous pittas of Sfakia are made, flat cakes filled with fresh sheep’s cheese and sprinkled with honey. If another local specialty, the pilaf with sheep’s butter, is not always appreciated, the goat meat confit that accompanies it is a real delight. Here, the local alcohol is not aniseed free and is called ” tsikoudia “. It is served with paximadia (dry bread), olives, honey and sheep cheese.
Tuna and mussels mezzes in Macedonia in the bay of Porto Koufo
Then, let’s make another big leap, to Macedonia this time, to Chalkidiki. The enclosed bay of Porto Koufo, was considered by Thucydides as the safest place in the region. Today, pirates and invaders have left this beautiful place alone. The taverns offer fresh fish of the day, excellent! The mydopilafo (mussel risotto) and the mussel saganaki are among the typical specialties of the Macedonian seaside. For a total immersion in the maritime tradition of the region, in September you can attend the festival of “tuna fishing”.
The small fry of Attica
But even those who spend the summer in Attica are entitled to the summer mildness. Thus, they will be able to taste a small fish fry in Porto-Rafti, a shrimp saganaki in Kastella, the hill above Faliro, a plate of squids in Psatha or in Porto Germéno, a pikilia in Nea Makri…
*****
Taste the Greek summer away from home, in a tavern with your feet in the water : Psaras
in the shade of the canisses to protect yourself from the hot sun, on a straw chair with an uncomfortable seat and, above all, surrounded by the people you love.
Have a great summer!
This article was written by Evi Siougari-Parmantier
