Lesvos (also called Lesbos, or Mytilene) is an island just off the Turkish coast. Lesbos is a large island, the third largest in Greece. With a lot of places to see and visit, Lesvos leaves no one indifferent. Indeed, there is no mass tourism on this island. Precious Lesbos cultivates its difference with hidden treasures such as the petrified forest. In fact, wealth is not to be found by the sea, but on the land, in the villages. This explains why the island is the cradle of ouzo, with its distinctive Plomari anise. It has its own cuisine, its own dishes. The story begins nearly 3,000 years ago with Sapho. An artist of genius, she asserted herself as a champion of love between women in Eresso, where she was born. So here are our top 10 things to do and see in Lesvos!
1. Discover the city of Mytilene
Mytilene is the main town on the island of Lesbos. Similarly, it often takes the name of the island. By boat or plane, Mytilene is the destination. This is the southern tip of the island.
Built on seven hills, the old town of Mytilene charms us with its beautiful neoclassical mansions. These cosmopolitan buildings reflect its eventful past. In ancient times, Mytilene was already the Greek capital, but sometimes Persian… then Byzantine, then Genoese, Turkish and finally Greek again in 1821.
We recommend a stroll along the pedestrian Ermou street to the old port. In the old port district, you’ll find beautiful cafes, street art and old grocery stores…
Where to eat?
We’ve tried them out, so we can give you our best addresses! Here are some of the cafes and taverns we particularly enjoyed:
- HOME, here on the map with its beautiful frame,
- HERMES or ERMIS, here on the map. This is the oldest cafe/tavern in Mytilene, over 200 years old.
What to see in Mytilene, on Lesvos
- In terms of culture, the castle offers a wealth of attractions (catacombs, water tanks, gunpowder storehouses…). It dates back to the 6th century and was renovated by the Genoese in 1373.
- A visit to the Orthodox cathedral of Saint Athanasios is also worthwhile, with its baroque dome. This is the most imposing building overlooking the port.
- Last but not least, a lovely museum dedicated to the famous painter Theophilos can be found on the outskirts of Mytilene, in Varia. It comprises four rooms featuring 86 paintings by Theophile. His paintings are full of life and Greek spirit, inspired by folk art, history and mythology. They also depict everyday scenes, costumes, landscapes, etc…
2. To do: Gera thermal baths
The Spa “Therma” on Lesbos is in an excellent location overlooking the magnificent Gulf of Gera, a few kilometers from Mytilene, in the Therma region. So if you’re setting off from Mytilene, you can take a well-deserved break at the thermal baths. It’s thermal water that comes from the bowels of the earth. From a depth of over 2,500 metres, the water reaches the surface at around 40 degrees Celsius. The water flows directly into two pools. In fact, it is renowned for its therapeutic qualities in rheumatism, arthritis, neuralgia, gynaecological diseases and chronic wounds. It’s a little corner of paradise, ideal for finding yourself and regenerating.
The spa offers a range of massages from €20 to €35. It also has a cafe and direct access to the beach.
3. Visit Agiasos
Further north, some 30 km away, lies the small town of Agiasos. Then it’s a complete change of scenery, as we discover the mountainous part of Lesbos. It’s a large, traditional village on the slopes of Mount Olymppos. Agiasos is one of the island’s most important protected forest resources. It is also part of the Natura 2000 network. There are many plane trees, apple trees, chestnut trees, pear trees and cherry trees. The village is characterized by narrow cobbled streets and stone houses with wooden balconies. For many years, the town was known for its pottery. Although the traditional village is very pleasant to visit, the most important thing is the church. Yes, Agiasos is best known as the religious center of the island of Lesbos. Why?
Renowned throughout Greece for its unique church of Panagia Agia Sion (hence the name Agiasos), Agiasos is the second church after Tinos for pilgrims who come to kneel before Panagia Brefokratousa (Virgin Mary and Child Jesus), a miraculous icon brought to Agiasos of Jerusalem by Agathon of Ephesus in the year 803.
So don’t hesitate to indulge in Agiasos delicacies such as chestnuts, cheese in oil, hachles (a form of trachana shaped like a boat), walnuts, mountain vegetables, dolmades with rice and pumpkin flowers. Similarly, it’s hard to resist the traditional village cafes, where the Greek coffee you drink is accompanied by a spoonful of sweet treats.
4. What to see: Plomari
Plomari is one of my favorite places in Greece. In fact, it was in a very unlikely way that I discovered this country through Plomari. Head due south from Agiasos. The second largest town on Lesbos, Plomari is located by the sea. The village as a whole is quite picturesque, with colorful houses and courtyards, narrow streets and beautiful churches. In the small squares around the village you’ll find traditional tavernas and pretty tree-shaded cafes.
Plomari isn’t exceptional, but it’s a place in all its authenticity. Don’t try to find beautiful spots. Plomari is the beauty of its simplicity. Surrounded by exceptional natural beauty, Plomari has something so Hellenic, so close to nature and to a plant: aniseed! Plomari is the birthplace of the national drink: OUZO.There are two ouzo museums in Plomari, created by two of the region’s most famous ouzo companies, Ouzo Varvagianni and Ouzo Isidorou Arvanitou.
But that’s not counting the beautiful beaches at Plomari, where you can swim in the blue waters of the Aegean Sea :
- Agios Isidoros, with a beautiful beach to the east,
- Ammoudeli, a beautiful pebble beach to the west,
5. Eresos
Skala Eressos is a must-see. It’s one of the most beautiful beaches on the island and undoubtedly the liveliest. The atmosphere is “super cool”. Similarly, if you like beach volleyball, there are plenty of courts where everyone is welcome. You can also rent bicycles. Fish taverns and cafes line the beach in a festive atmosphere day and night.
Where to eat?
- Soulatso: Fish tavern, with delicious grilled sardines!
- Aigaío: A fish tavern, a sure bet!
The great poetess Sapho was born in Eressos. What’s more, there are still vestiges of the ancient town. In ancient times, Eressos was an important commercial center. As a result, today this city is a “Mecca” in waiting for “lesbians” from all over the world. But it’s also a popular family destination, not to mention a favorite spot for honeymooners. In short, everyone feels very much at home on Eresos, the people of Lesbos, tourists and Greeks alike. It’s also possible to go hiking or visit nearby villages.
The city is alive with cultural events and activities during the summer, such as the Womensfestival. Many foreign artists stay in Eressos and offer their creations. There are many summer concerts along the beach and an open-air cinema, the Sapho cinema.
In conclusion, this seaside town is a timeless, out-of-this-world paradise…cars are not allowed. Children are completely safe! This immense beach with its crystal-clear waters is a magnificent place of freedom and well-being.
6. Explore Sigri and its petrified forest
But beyond the island’s long history, I’m also impressed by the people who live here. Where we think they’re as dry as their astipia and oaks, we discover within them spiritual juices, treasures as precious and hidden as the silver of their olive trees. Then I’ll live, Angel, on your island. But to the west, on the bare rock of the picturesque fishing village. Who knows… maybe forever… “
ALBERT CAMUS About Sigri
Sigri is a picturesque coastal village full of simplicity and charm. First and foremost, its small port with its fishing boats and its 17th-century Ottoman castle offer a most enchanting backdrop.
The village also boasts the best restaurant on the island: Cavo Doro. This restaurant offers delicious “nouvelle cuisine” dishes. Open only in summer, it costs around 30 euros per person. What’s more, Sigri has unspoilt beaches except for the one next to the port.
But above all, Sigri has a worldwide reputation thanks to its petrified forest. It’s a unique place in the world. Warning: this is a huge plunge into the history of the Earth. Less than 20 million years ago, Lesbos was covered by a tropical forest. Following a volcanic eruption in the Aegean Sea, the trees, especially the very large redwoods, and the vegetation became fossilized. Two wonderful activities are on offer:
You can also visit the petrified forest by boat from Sigri.
7. Molivos, the pearl of Lesbos
Completely to the north-west of Lesbos, Molivos, or its ancient name Mythimne, is a pretty medieval village. Dominated by its castle, access is via cobbled streets winding past traditional houses. This castle was built by the Genoese, probably in the 14th century.
It’s very lively and picturesque, with plenty of accommodation, seaside tavernas and friendly cafes. We recommend having your meal in the romantic little port below Molivos. We enjoyed a small, very traditional tavern: Octopus. It’s a lovely one-day stopover. What’s more, the road to get there is exceptionally scenic and wild.
In Molivos (or Molyvos), you can enjoy the peace and quiet of a variety of marine attractions, such as renting a sailboat or yacht, or visiting a diving center. An ideal opportunity for a first dive, or a day of boat diving for experienced divers (2 dives). The windy season, which attracts windsurfers, starts in mid-August.
The International Music Festival and the Arion Guitar Festival have also made Molyvos an international celebrity.
A few kilometers from Molyvos lies Eftalou, a beautiful place with secluded pebble beaches and hot springs.
8. Ecotourism on Lesbos
Ecotourism is a trendy and overused term. But if there’s one place dedicated to ecotourism, it’s Lesbos. The whole island is dominated by nature. If you want to visit Lesbos, it’s only from an ecotourism perspective. For example, visitors can take part in various ecotourism activities such as hiking through unique natural areas. It’s an opportunity to discover the incredible botanical wealth of over 1,300 different plant species. In addition, there’s cycling, sailing, surfing, boat tours, scuba diving, climbing and a wide variety of activities to discover hidden natural treasures.
And the hidden treasures are right in front of us, the birds. It’s an exceptional global nature reserve. A wide variety of birds pass through Lesbos in spring on their migration.
9. Moni Limonos, a monastery to see in Lesvos
In the heart of the island, north of Kalloni, lies a Mecca of Greek culture. This is the largest and most important monastery on the island of Lesbos – Moni Limonos. It dates back to the 16th century and is one of the symbols of Greek cultural resistance during Ottoman domination. The monastery then housed a secret school and remained a place of learning thanks to an exceptional library where Greek scholars gathered.
Of course, the monastery is distinguished by its many chapels and its main church dedicated to Saint Ignatius. It’s a place of immense serenity, secluded from everything and surrounded by enveloping nature. The monks offer a warm welcome, and the peacocks that wander among the visitors add to this rejuvenating visit.
10. Getting to and around Lesbos
That’s right! How to reach the island of Lesbos? So, if you want to stay on Lesbos, you can go there by plane or by boat .
To get around Lesbos, we strongly recommend renting a car on site. There are lots of places to visit, not always close to each other. We recommend Rentalcars for a quick overview of different rental companies and rates. Alternatively, you can enjoy a 4×4 excursion to Mount Olympus near the village of Agiassos or to the Lepetymnos mountain to meet the wild horses.
Lesbos by ferry:
There are regular ferries between Lesbos and Piraeus, to Athens, with a journey time of 11-12 hours. There are also ferry links between Lesbos and other Aegean islands, including Chios (approx. 3 hours), Lemnos (30 minutes) and Samos (approx. 90 minutes). Occasional ferries also link Lesbos to the Greek mainland ports of Thessaloniki (11-12 hours) and Kavala (10-11 hours).
To book our ferry tickets, we always use the following platform Ferry Hopper, easy and fast to use. And what’s more, there’s no extra charge!
Lesvos by plane:
Mytilene has an international airport. There are several daily flights from Athens as well as from other European capitals. There are also links between certain islands, such as Rhodes. Flying to the island of Lesbos is a good option, as it takes less than an hour from Athens to reach the airport. The island is served by the Greek airlines Sky Express, Olympic Air and Aegean Airlines, with several flights a day in high season.
*****
Finally, for accommodation in Lesbos (or Mytilene), you’ll find plenty on Booking for hotels, apartments and even privately-run houses. Alternatively, Airbnb also offers rentals.
Now you’re all set to visit Lesbos, Lesvos and Mytilene! We hope our top 10 things to see and do in Lesvos will help you plan a wonderful vacation on this North Aegean island!
Céline P.
Updated February 20, 2024
