Spetses, one of the Saronic islands, welcomes you with the scent of jasmine. Stroll through the narrow streets dotted with colorful bougainvillea. Hydra’ s twin island, with which it is physically close, has its own character.
Here are a few practical tips(where to sleep, how to get to Spetses, how to get around) and a suggested weekend program.
First things first: how do you get around the island of Spetses?
We’d be hard pressed to describe Spetses as a pedestrian island, as it is criss-crossed by scooters and mopeds whose engine noises can be unpleasant. But you don’t have to rent one and join the chorus of petrol boats to enjoy the island’s treasures. For a weekend, getting around on foot is enough. But for those wishing to explore the island in greater depth, you can also rent (electric!) bikes and quads, hop on a horse-drawn carriage or take a cab from the port.
Suggested programme: Spetses day 1
Spetses is an island where it’s pleasant to stroll both on the seafront and on land.
Once you’re opposite the port, you can turn left towards Ligoneri and stop for lunch at Kounoupitsa. Just a 10-minute walk from the port’s large, crowded terraces, you can enjoy a waterside lunch at Akrogiala, a cozy tavern serving fresh fish and traditional mezze.
Take the opportunity to indulge in a dessert at the patisserie Αρτοποιείο Τάσος, right next door. We tried the ice creams on the right and they were… to die for!
If you continue along the seafront, you’ll come across Ligonéri beach and, further on, Vrelos beach. If you’re looking for a beach with facilities, Kaiki beach is the place to go. Expect to pull out your wallet: parasol/transat sets start at €15, with prices rising to €30 for sofas and couches. Another option for a landscaped beach: Paradise Beach.
In the evening, we recommend the atmosphere of the old port, a 15-minute walk from the harbor. With the added bonus of a charming stroll along the seafront. We enjoyed our dinner at the Tarsanas restaurant, on a terrace overlooking the water, where the service was meticulous and the waiters attentive.
If you feel like eating on the harbor, the Orloff restaurant is very good. Book a table on the pier, the setting is pleasant. We also love the Nero Tis Agapi restaurant.
For night owls, we recommend these 2 atmospheric bars:
Eclipse bar: outdoor bar, indoor club area. Good musical atmosphere, mostly international music. Admission charge (€10 with 1 free drink)
Guzel Spetses: Another atmospheric bar (around €10 for a cocktail), with good Greek music.
Spetses day 2
The next day, take a stroll to the lighthouse point, where you can enjoy a superb view. You’ll pass through a pine forest, and although access to the lighthouse is impossible because it’s closed for security reasons, a short path allows you to admire the waves crashing against the rocks below.
On the land side, the beautiful mansions in the surrounding area offer a nice change of scenery, far from the noise of mopeds.
Not wanting to go to a private beach, we went in search of a small cove and “stumbled” (not exactly by chance, as there weren’t many signs, so we thank Google Maps) on Garifallos beach . A small, quiet pebble beach with easy access via steps. It’s a 10-minute walk from the old port and well preserved.
Another very pleasant beach, but a little further away: Paralia Kouzounos. It’s just beyond Agia Marina beach. A discreet passage leads to it.
We would have liked to tell you about the Bouboulinas museum, which the guides say is one of the island’s major attractions. An important local figure, Laskarina Bouboulinas put her fortune at the service of the struggle for Greek independence. However, as the museum is accessible only by guided tour, when we visited, English-language tours were no longer available, due to the influx of Greek tourist groups. Visiting times are posted outside. Unfortunately, you’ll have to wait for the exact time to find out whether a tour in English will be available or not. And, if need be, try your luck again at the next one, crossing your fingers that it takes place.
As a consolation prize, a playground in front of the museum will help you to wait it out for those with young children.
Where to stay in Spetses?
We spent the night at Hotel Margarita and are very happy with our choice. The British landlady, who has lived in Greece for 40 years, will be on hand to help you make the most of your stay. And she can advise you on where to go. The hotel is conveniently located 10 minutes from the port, and offers a free shuttle service upon arrival on the island. It also has a swimming pool. A double room with breakfast is €60.
You can find many accommodations in Spetses on the following website Booking .
How do I get to Spetses?
– from Piraeus: fast boats 4 to 6 times a day, taking 2h30 and costing around €30. Boat tickets can be booked online and timetables consulted on the Ferry Hopper website.
– Kosta (2h30 drive from Athens):
– pedestrian boats every 2 hours. The crossing takes 20 minutes and costs around €3 per passenger.
– Taxi-boats for a shorter crossing and a maximum of 8 people at a cost of €23.
In both cases, you can leave your car at the port of Kosta (€5/day).
We opted for a boat from the port of Kosta, a 2h30 drive from Athens. You drive along the Saronic Gulf on a winding road through magnificent scenery. But be careful if you want to admire the magnificent scenery. The impatience of the local driver will more often than not force you to turn right!
Another idea: why not go to Spetses by sailboat or catamaran, with or without a skipper depending on your needs? Clickandboat offers one- to two-week cruises departing from the port of Alimos in Athens to discover the various Saronic islands.
Séverine C.
And if you’re planning to visit Spetses in September, don’t miss the Armata celebration.
