The changing of the guard is definitely one of the things to see if you visit the Greek capital. We can see the evzones these soldiers who wear shoes with tassels and a white skirt with 400 folds (which represent the 400 years of Ottoman occupation). Many smile when they see their uniforms, but make no mistake, these men are part of an elite unit. They are rigorously selected according to their size, their excellent physical condition and their morality. For the Greek people, the Evzones are symbols of bravery and courage.
Day and night, the Evzones stand proudly and completely still in front of the Hellenic Parliament. They are not allowed to speak while on duty and can only express themselves by winking or tapping the ground with the butt of their gun. Their face remains perfectly impassive in all circumstances. During the changeover, the guards make wide and slow movements, slamming the nails of their shoes on the marble in a synchronized way. A surprising “ballet”, with cadenced steps, which deserves to be seen.
Where and when to see the changing of the guard in Athens?
Where?
- The changing of the guard takes place on Syntagma Square, at the foot of the Hellenic Parliament, in front of the monument of the Unknown Soldier. This is where we recommend you go.
- The same ritual also takes place in front of the Presidential Palace on Irodou Attikou Street.
When?
- On-call rotation is done every day, 24 hours a day on the dot. It gives place to a picturesque ceremony, skilfully orchestrated. It is enough to arrive about ten minutes early, on Syntagma Square, and to wait in front of the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. There are usually not many people. Don’t hesitate to go at night, after dinner. The atmosphere is then somewhat surreal.
- And there is also a much more solemn Changing of the Guard in Athens, every Sunday morning at 11 o’clock. That day, the evzones are much more numerous because the whole garrison moves. They then wear their ceremonial uniforms. Accompanied by a military band, they march from their barracks, just behind the Parliament building, along Vasilis Sofias Avenue to the tomb of the unknown soldier. In order to get a good view, we advise you to be at Syntagma Square, in front of the Parliament, at least 30-40 minutes in advance.
How to see the changing of the guard in Athens?
- You can easily watch the changing of the guard. The Syntagma Square where this “show” takes place is located in the center of Athens. It is easily accessible by metro. It is served by lines 2 (red) and 3 (blue). And it is also served by many buses.
- The multi-stop tourist buses stop at Syntagma Square to allow visitors to watch the changing of the guard and take pictures of the Evzones.
- And if you prefer to see the relief as part of a guided tour of the city in order to benefit from more explanations, you can opt for the tours offered on GetYourGuide from 39€ (we have not tested them).
- Finally, if you only have a short time and want to see the Changing of the Guard during a short visit to Athens, then opt for a private transfer with Welcome Rides. Your driver will pick you up at the airport/Piraeus/your hotel and will show you the best of Athens in just a few hours (including the changing of the guard). Reservation link (when ordering, remember to ask in the comments for a French speaking driver).
Attend the changing of the guard in Athens with children
The changing of the guard is generally a very popular moment with children. They are fascinated by this skilfully orchestrated choreography and they like the uniform of the evzones.
If your children are small, they can easily cope with the hourly changing of the guard in front of Parliament. There are far fewer people than on Sundays so they are not rushed and they will see better. They can stand right in front of the soldiers and thus have a front row seat to watch the “show”.
And at the end of the shift, they will surely take a lot of pleasure in having their picture taken next to the evzones. Be careful though, tell them not to touch the guards… under penalty of being caught by the soldier nearby who is watching over them.
A funny anecdote for the children: during their service, the Evzones are not allowed to speak. They therefore communicate with their superior by a system of blinking eyelids. One blink to say “yes”, two blinks to say “no” and three blinks to say “I don’t know”.
Learn more about Evzones
To know everything about the Evzones, see our article The Evzones, one of the emblems of the Greek capital.
Laure M.
Updated on April 3, 2024
