Thassos also known as the Emerald Island is a Greek island located in the northern Aegean Sea. Still little known, it abounds in authentic villages, sublime beaches and secret places. Pascaline takes us to visit Thassos (Thasos), a tour of the island to discover the must-see and must-do’s on this charming island.
You can go around the island (95km) in a day, by a road that goes along the sea and offers superb panoramic views. But then you will have breathed only a hint of all these fragrances. It really takes several days to discover the true nature of this round and steep island. And I will even say several years because I myself have been staying there regularly since my childhood and I find myself surprised by new hidden landscapes, protected from mass tourism.
Pascaline B.
Find in our article a lot of practical information about the island of Thassos: how to get there? where to stay ? where to eat ?
- 1 – Limena, the main town of Thassos
- 2 – Panagia, an authentic mountain village
- 3 – The small village of Potamia
- 4 – The plain of Kinira and its beaches
- 5 – Visit the Aliki Peninsula
- 6 – Discover the southern tip of the island: Giola Lagoon and Cape Salonikios
- 7 – Stroll through the beautiful village of Theologos
- 8 – Visit the Limenaria region
- 9 – The west of Thassos: its mountain villages and its ports
- 10 – Other activities and excursions
And here we go for a tour of the island with Pascaline! Village after village, she makes us discover Thassos (Thasos) her favorite island.
1 – Limena, the main town of Thassos
LIMENA, capital of the island, is the main port, the administrative and commercial center. Opposite the quay, the Mouses restaurant is perfect for a meal just before departure, or when getting off the boat, good original dishes on a very flowery terrace. Otherwise this new district has nothing interesting, you might as well go directly to the old port, personally I advise walking (15-20mn) because it is very difficult to park, especially in the tourist season. There are parking lots at the entrance to the old town but they are often overcrowded.
Archaeological sites and visits
The city is built on the ancient city. According to archaeologists, if the modern city had not developed from the 60s, we would have an archaeological site with the largest city in Greece.
Through the streets you can see the preserved remains and the city walls. The ancient agora and the acropolis with its ancient theater is the largest site. At the top of the Acropolis, the few ruins are mainly those of the Venetian fort built in 1204.
Nearby the magnificent archaeological museum reflects the ancient civilization of the island and its origins from the Paleolithic period. It houses vast collections of unique riches from the 7th century BC to the 7th century AD. A variety of ceramics, busts and impressive sculptures.
Do not miss the monastery “Vatopediou or Kalogériko” which organizes exhibitions, along the old port. In the middle of the season a festival of shows is organized in the ancient theater. And also, don’t hesitate to visit the ceramic workshop of Kosti, third generation of potters.
Beaches near Limena
From Makryammos begins a path covered with white dust that leads to the marble quarries but above all to three impressive beaches by the turquoise color of the sea. However, they are very popular: beware of the traffic jams of bathers!
Not to be missed! These are the heavenly beaches of Salaria (also called Marble Beach), Marmara Beach and Porto Vathi Beach.
This last and most remote one was still secret and virgin of deckchair until 2020, I had my tent with the thousand stars there… From now on, this paradisiac place also welcomes the Vathi Cove hotel.
2 – Panagia, an authentic mountain village
PANAGIA, a picturesque mountain village at 300m altitude. It is a must to visit the island of Thassos. The houses with slate roofs are gradually being renovated after a catastrophic period in the 1980s and 1990s. At that time, the so-called modern aluminum replaced the wooden doors and windows. Authentic materials are slowly coming back to life.
An abundant spring gushes out at the top of the village between the plane trees, it’s a pity that the layout of the site gives it a kitschy look.
What to do in Panagia?
- Get lost in the small, formerly paved streets that go around the village. Here, various tourist stores offer pine honey which is famous all over Greece.
- The visit of the Ecomuseum Sotirelis Olive Oil Museum is very interesting and a small store offers oil and bracelets made of olive stones and fine stones. The reception is very friendly, the olive oil of Thassos is famous. Georgos Sotirelis also welcomes you in his hotel Hermes.
- The Argilos workshop offers handmade ceramics, painted in a figurative style with joyful colors.
- Take the forest trail that goes to the Dragon Cave, home of bats and spiders. Remember to take a light with you!
- Take your time and sit at a terrace in the center of the village at Café To Retro at Aleko’s for an ouzo, or at Elena’s, a very good family tavern.
Beaches near Panagia
Panagia overlooks the large beach of GOLDEN BEACH, Xrysia Amoudia (or Chrisi Ammoudia). Three kilometers of golden sand, which today is built all along. It’s a pity that the traditional architecture has not been respected to safeguard this exceptional site, a fine sandy beach of such a great size. Instead you have a myriad of different styles, from neoclassical baroque to pavilion modern.
In the heights and away from the tourist center, I recommend the Dionysos hotel, run by a very welcoming family from Panagia. The view is beautiful and the small beach of the mar ina is more quiet. They also make restaurant.
Pericles and Karl offer water sports on the beach.
On the other side of the bay, Skala Potamia is a family resort.
3 – The small village of Potamia
Potamia is also a village that has remained traditional. There is a small museum of the artist Polygnotou Vagi, a sculptor who presents his works.
Ask for the start of the hiking trail up Mount Ypasarion, a beautiful path that leads through the gardens, up to the mountain hut before reaching the summit. The view on the island is exceptional.
4 – The plain of Kinira and its beaches
The plain of KINIRA is much quieter and the narrow beaches are not developed. The view on the island of Kinira makes you want to cross it with mask and fins, but be careful, the currents are strong and the distance is still important. Hiking trails lead up to the springs of Vlachos, and you can even reach the charming village of Theologos.
Beaches near Kinira
The Paradisio beach is one of the most developed beaches and is very popular with tourists. Two beach bars on each side of the bay, music, umbrellas, deckchairs for a cove that was indeed a real paradise.
Continuing the winding road, towards the south, the beach of Agios Ioannis presents an archaeological site but a large hotel complex has completely invaded the site.
5 – Visit the Aliki Peninsula
The Aliki peninsula is a breathtaking site. Ancient marble quarry, probably exploited in the seventh century BC, the peninsula offers contrasts between the sea and the whiteness of the marble. The graphism of the stone, the columns are traces of the work of the man who gnawed the earth. A walk in the ruins of the small sanctuary of Apollo whose establishment goes back to the colonization of the island by the Parians, then of the double basilica of the paleochristian period, allows to make the turn of the ancient quarries. The sunset on the marble blocks at the water’s edge offers magnificent golden reflections.
The soil of Thassos being practically made up of marble and schist, all the beaches are of a sparkling blue-green, reflection of the sky on a white sand.
This beach is also very popular, the one of the archaeological site is not developed and therefore less crowded. You can eat at the tavern.
You can also push a little further on the small cove of Skidia very pleasant. In addition, there is a nice little tavern Kékes Beach Skidia Tavern. It’s much quieter, and the food is delicious.
The Archangelou Monastery, built on the cliffside, dominates the beach of Livadi. The church is of the XIIth century, the panorama is superb. Livadi is a wild beach but the floods have damaged the olive trees. The small cove of Arsanas Beach is very pretty, with stalactite formations in the rocks. It is furnished with a few deckchairs and umbrellas but in a family and relaxed atmosphere, with also a small tavern. The access is by a dirt road.
6 – Discover the southern tip of the island: Giola Lagoon and Cape Salonikios
Giola Lagoon
Giola lagoon is the postcard of Thassos! Natural pool, the place was magical when it was wild or totally out of season. If you want to see a horde of bathers on the rocks around this troubled drop of water, stop by but watch out for the sun, no shade in sight!
Cap Salonikios
In the direction of Cape Salonikios, a dirt road of about 1.7km between the pines leads to a lovely little sandy cove. Salonikios beach is not very crowded. A nice little bar offers refreshments and sandwiches, homemade ginger lemonade, and manages deckchairs in the shade of curtains, a bohemian side for a relaxing moment. Perfect for diving, octopus and fish are present.
7 – Stroll through the beautiful village of Theologos
From the lively summer resort of Potos, a road leads up the valley to the ancient capital of the island: THEOLOGOS.
Hiking near Theologos
Halfway there is the start of the hike to the abandoned hamlet of Kastri and the prehistoric site of Larnaki. Magnificent landscapes, a source allows to quench one’s thirst, the view on all the valley since the archaeological site is superb. An invigorating walk to be done in the late afternoon or out of season. Allow 2 to 3 hours.
At the entrance of the village, I advise you to go up the road on the left, to park in the heights near the cemetery, you can continue on a dirt road to the springs of Aghia Vassiliki, 10mn on foot. The Watermill-Neromilos tavern offers a simple menu but with products from their farm, built on several terraces in the shade of plane trees, it is a moment of pure freshness.
Departure for the hiking trail to the top to the chapel Aghia Kiriaki, with a panorama over the whole plain of Kinira, you can continue to Mt.
Visit Theologos
It is necessary to take time to really discover Theologos. Two small roads cross the village with traditional houses, the folk museum presents a beautiful collection in an old habitat. On August 24, the inhabitants of the village re-enact a wedding feast with music and costumes, which ends with a dance performance.
A visit to the handmade leather sandal store, which has been in business for three generations, is a must.
And A walk through the ruined neighborhood, abandoned after a pirate attack around 1800, gives another view of the village. A beautiful meditative walk! The Kefalogourna waterfalls allow a small bath during the hot periods of the summer.
8 – Visit the Limenaria region
Limenaria
LIMENARIA is the second largest city on the island. It prospered at the end of the 19th century thanks to the mining (copper, iron and lead) of the German company Speidel. It was the administrative center that now stands in place of the Palataki built in 1900 and unfortunately left in ruins.
The whole bay is a large beach, the small cove of Tripiti is the most beautiful. A diving center and water sports are offered on Pefkari beach. You will also find a campsite under the pine trees which is very pleasant.
Kastro
Take the direction of Kalivia and go up to the highest village of Thassos: KASTRO.
This fortress was built by Oberto Grimani in 1434 when Thassos was ruled by the Genoese. Only a few stones, a chapel and its ossuary remain today but the view is amazing. As the road has recently been paved, the houses are now renovated with more or less taste. I preferred its authenticity due to its isolation, but it remains one of the most beautiful places. Kosta’s Café offers very simple dishes in a friendly atmosphere. A tip: ask for the key to the church of Aghios Athanasio, the oldest on the island. A hiking trail of about 1/2 hour leads to the Apostolus waterfalls, an afternoon in a peaceful haven.
Skala Marion
The beach of Fari is the only one to remain wild, there are no shadows but at least for once: no deckchairs! Archaeological excavations have uncovered an ancient ceramic workshop, some stones can be seen. The small landscaped cove of Atspas is nice. There are also good fish taverns in the harbor, but the concrete constructions have denatured this small fishing port.
9 – The west of Thassos: its mountain villages and its ports
To visit the island of Thassos is also to discover the mountain villages. They are numerous on the island.
Maries
Going up to the heart of the island by MARIES allows you to refresh yourself in the natural pools upstream of the small artificial lake. Beekeepers sometimes come to offer their honeys, the one of pine trees but also of chestnuts and flowers. It is through these dirt roads that one can reach the summit of Ypsarion by car.
Kallirachi
The village of KALLIRACHI offers a few hiking trails, especially to the church of Metamorfosi Sotiros which has a beautiful view and the site of Kastania which makes a loop by passing over a small stone aqueduct.
Sotiros
SOTIROS is a very small village. The Platanos tavern, under the hundred-year-old tree, serves traditional dishes. The view from the terrace is magnificent, especially at sunset.
Skala Prinou and Prinou
SKALA PRINOU is the port to go directly to Kavala. Cape Prinou is very green, especially in spring, when you can observe beautiful varieties of wild orchids. The forest park is protected “Dasilio Prinou”. The municipal camping is well vegetated, the infrastructure is very good with a beach where the sea is always calm.
PRINOU is a small commercial town, with above all the medical center of Thassos, open 24 hours a day, tel: 2593 350000.
From this side of the island, the sunsets are blazing.
Kazaviti, a charming village that has kept its authenticity
You have to cross Prinou to find the road that climbs to the village protected since the 70’s and therefore the most authentic: KAZAVITI (Megalos Prinos). It is difficult to park in the village parking lot, so it is better to stop before and walk.
Beautiful stone and wooden houses in Macedonian style, the main square with its gigantic plane trees is perfect for a meal at the Kazaviti restaurant. For a good coffee with a honey prune, stop at the Café Anhfori, a beautiful terrace just in front of the church with the twelve apostles, observe the fine lauze roof.
Very nice walks above the village, mainly to the chapel Aghios Ioannis, a clearing with plane trees with witches’ claws that bewitched us, just magical. Fires in 2017, unfortunately ravaged the forest massif and some parts of the walk may seem more idle. Several villas and hotels allow you to enjoy, taking your time, this picturesque village (notably the Casa Rodia which I recommend to you).
On the way to Skala Rachoni, you can stop to visit the olive museum a complete exhibition with old presses, a video documentary…
As well as a Wine Cellar Museum in the village of Aghios Georgos, in a rustic setting, let’s taste if the famous wines of antiquity are found in these varieties.
Coast to Limena
The entire west coast up to Limena is dotted with coves Glyfneri, Glykadi, Papalimani, Scala, Glyfada… On the beach of Pachis, the tavern of “Pefkospilia” literally “the caves of pine trees” is as its name indicates: a refuge under the pine trees intermingled with the turquoise water, they serve very good fish with music some evenings.
For a good visit of the island of Thassos, take the map of Anavasi.
10 – Other activities and excursions
Finally, visiting a Greek island is also the perfect opportunity to do activities that you are not used to doing. Or to take advantage of days off where we let ourselves be guided completely! Here are some ideas:
- Make a scuba diving trip for beginners or experienced divers.
- Take a cruise on a sailboat to discover the island. On the program, swimming in the translucent waters of the island, visits, observation of seagulls, cormorants and maybe even dolphins… In addition, the tour is available!
- A day to live like a local in Kastro and Theologos: visits to workshops and small museums, tasting of local products. In English
- Go on a Safari on the island by 4×4 and climb to the peak of the Ipsarion mountain! Visits also to Kastro, the Panagouda monastery (where only one monk lives), Maries… In English
Have a good trip and nice meetings
Article written with passion by Pascaline
