Those who think that the skirt is not a masculine apparel, come and admire the irresistible Evzones on the Syntagma square ! They are probably among the most photographed characters of Athens. And the changing of the guard, which takes place every hour in front of the Parliament, Syntagma Square, attracts many tourists.
Who are the evzones?
The Evzones (Εύζωνοι literally means ” well girded ” in Greek) are a unit that keeps a 24/7 watch over the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament in Syntagma Square and the Presidential Palace. And this under a blazing sun (which is often the case in Athens), whether it’s raining, windy or snowing (yes, it happens almost every winter). They are not professional soldiers, but young Greeks who perform their compulsory military service.
Rigor and endurance under the eyes of tourists
The selection to become an Evzone is tough. Indeed, you must be at least 1.80m tall and be able to remain impassive in all circumstances. As soon as they put on their uniforms, the Evzones are no longer allowed to speak. Thus, if they encounter a difficulty while on guard duty (for example, in case of inappropriate behavior by a tourist), they tap the ground with the butt of their weapon so that a superior can come to their aid. Since all oral communication is forbidden, the Evzones communicate by blinking their eyelids. One blink to say “yes”, two blinks to say “no” and three blinks to say “I don’t know”.
You can have your picture taken with them. This is a classic souvenir photo of a stay in Athens. However, be careful to respect some rules, otherwise you will be caught by the military in fatigues who is watching carefully (only one person at a time, no touching the Evzones or taking selfies with them…).
From the skirt of Evzones and other accessories
The Evzones are adorned with a completely handmade uniform that would make any fashionista jealous. The must of their outfit is the famous pleated skirt, called fustanelle, cut in 30 meters of white fabric. And it is composed of 400 folds that symbolize the 400 years of servitude under the Ottoman occupation. In addition, under their skirts, the Evzones wear white woolen stockings.
The uniform of the Evzones also consists of :
- a red felt beret with a black silk tassel
- of a vest decorated with embroideries that respond to an ancestral know-how. The black color of the fabric symbolizes the mourning of slavery. As for the white, it represents the purity of love for freedom.
- aerial shoes, called tsarouchia, weighing 1,5kg each and whose sole is decorated with 60 metal nails. Hence the resonance of their footsteps when they beat the pavement of Syntagma Square. The tip of the shoes is decorated with a black pompom. It is said that a sharp blade was once hidden inside, very useful in hand-to-hand combat
© Laure M.
A legendary Evzone
National hero or political myth? It is said that the Evzone Konstantinos Koukidis would have, in April 1941, refused to give the Greek flag to the German officers. He would have rolled up in it before throwing himself from the top of the Acropolis.
Warning: do not confuse Konstantinos Koukidis with Manólis Glézos and Apóstolos Sántas, two students who, on May 30, 1941, removed the Nazi flag that was flying on the Acropolis of Athens to replace it with the Greek flag.
The “Evzones” souvenirs
The Evzones have become one of the emblems of Athens. They are very popular with children. Here are three ideas of souvenirs to bring back.
- The Evzone plush, adorable and funny with its big moustache (28€ – on sale at Forget me not ).
- The 3D cardboard figurine (7€) or the Evzone puzzle (10€) from the brand “Meet the Greeks” (on sale in museum stores or at Forget me not)
- The red beret decorated with a silk tassel to be bought in the kiosks in front of the entrance of the National Garden, on Vassilis Amalias Avenue. Yes, let’s face it, it’s kitsch. But success guaranteed with the youngest! Price to be negotiated directly with the seller, about 5€.
So when you visit Athens, don’t miss a visit to the Evzones in front of the Greek Parliament in Syntagma Square. The changing of the guard of the Evzones is a must-see in Athens!
In a nutshell
- To admire the evzones, go to Place Syntagma, in front of the Parliament. The changing of the guard takes place every day, 24 hours a day, on the hour, in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Google Maps).
- Metro access line 3 (blue) and line 2 (red), Syntagma stop
- Free
Laure M.
Updated on April 3, 2024
