Until recently, eastern Crete, and more specifically the south-east, was mainly visited by Greek tourists. Indeed, roads have long been less developed and in poorer condition than on the rest of the island. Now that’s changed.
The eastern part of Crete has remained wilder and less touristy than the rest of the island. Our Cretan friend Anastasia shares with us her favorite spots in south-east Crete.
Ierapetra and the small village of Koutsounari
Anastasia suggests you start your discovery of south-east Crete with Koutsounari, a small village a few kilometers from Ierapetra. She recommends staying at Nakou Village. A nice place, with small cottages and a good breakfast. But above all, a splendid view in the evening….. you can only see the sea and the moon… Provided there’s no wind….because when it blows in this region, it blows hard! For water sports enthusiasts.
Here are also other suggestions for accommodation in Koutsounari:
- Apothikes Apartments: Located directly on the beach, with their feet in the water, these apartments offer calm and comfort. A magical place!
- Villa Daniela and Apartments : an establishment with an outdoor swimming pool, gym and garden.
A car is essential in Koutsounari, as the village is a little high up.
The town of Ierapetra is not very interesting in itself. But you can still admire the Venetian fortress and the bustling port where the fishermen return in the morning.
Ierapetra can be used as a base for visiting this part of the island. Visit our selection of accommodation in Ierapetra.
To eat, Anastasia recommends Kleio Taverna ( or Klio), located on the main road between Koutsounari and Ierapetra. An excellent tavern serving authentic, home-style Cretan cuisine.
Don’t miss Chrissi Island in south-east Crete
The island of Chrissi (also spelled Chrysi or Chryssi) is also called Gaidouronisi – which means “donkey island” in Greek. It lies opposite Ierapetra. Boats operate daily shuttles, offering the chance to spend the day in Chrissi. You can book your tickets online for the crossing from Ierapetra to Chrissi Island here .
Unfortunately, boat prices have become somewhat expensive (around 35 euros per person). But Anastasia says it’s all worth it! Because the island of Chrissi is a paradise that resembles a Caribbean island: turquoise waters, fine white sand and magnificent natural surroundings. Total paradise! There is a developed beach, but it’s touristy. We therefore advise you to get away from the crowds for a while. In this case, it’s best to bring a parasol with you. Please note: the boat drops you off on the other side of the island, not where the beautiful beaches are. So it’s about a 15-minute walk in the hot sun. But take it from Anastasia: you won’t regret it. I promise!
A little further east of Ierapetra, from Makris Gialos, we also recommend another excursion in search of beautiful beaches with turquoise waters: Excursion to the island of Koufonisi. Located in the south of Crete, this uninhabited island is a true paradise! Tour with english-speaking guide.
Mylonas Gorge and surrounding area: beaches, waterfalls and hiking
Twenty kilometers east of Ierapatra lies the superb Mylonas Gorge. It starts between the villages of Agios Ioannis and Schinokapsala, at an altitude of 500m, and ends 7 km away on the beach of Kakia Skala. By car, after passing Kakkos bays, turn right in the middle of the bend. There’s a small wooden signpost, follow the road for a good kilometer and finish on foot, it’s very beautiful!
IIn winter and early spring (there’s less water in summer), another waterfall forms alongside the main cascade, making it even more spectacular. At the foot of the cascade is a small pond surrounded by rocks, making it a pleasant place to cool off after a walk. We advise you to go early in the morning, as it will be less hot and less crowded.
Then there are beautiful beaches nearby: Agia Fotia or Galini beach.
The favorite of Véronique and Laurent, faithful readers of Vivre Athènes: Kalyvitis. Nestled on a hillside to the east of Ierapetra, Manu and Heidi have created a veritable little paradise in the heart of Cretan nature and olive groves. They welcome you with open arms and will do their utmost to ensure your well-being! For guests looking for peace and quiet, there are two tastefully decorated maisonettes (for 2 people) and a renovated Cretan house (for 4 or 5 people). A few animals, goats and chickens, brighten up the estate. Finally, Heidi and Manu even produce a pure, high-quality olive oil that can be shipped to your home!
Zakros and its port Kato Zakros: wild and authentic eastern Crete
On Crete’s far eastern coast lies Kato Zakros, a small, quiet, non-touristy village. This allows you to discover a wild corner of Crete.
Kato Zakros has beautiful beaches. There’s also the chance to do some lovely hiking (notably the famous European E4 trail and the Valley of the Dead, which starts from the village of Zakros). Finally, you can admire the ruins of a Minoan palace.
Almost all the inhabitants of the Zakros region work in agriculture, especially in the production and export of olive oil. If you stay here, you’ll taste some of the best fruit and vegetables and oil in Crete and indeed in Greece.
If you want to spend a night or two in Kato Zakros, you’ll find a few nice establishments. No big resorts or tourist hotels, just small, charming structures. Visit our selection of accommodation in Kato Zakros. There’s a pleasant air of being at the end of the world here.
Moving up to the north-east of Crete: the beach and palm grove of Vai
Finally, Anastasia recommends a visit to the Vai palm grove. It lies in the north-east of Crete. Although it’s a 1h30 drive from Ierapetra, it’s easily done in a day. It’s an impressive place. A real palm grove! This gives the impression of being in an exotic location.
Vai has become popular with tourists over the years… but it’s still bearable. Adjacent to the palm grove, you’ll find a beautiful, fully-equipped beach with umbrellas and tavernas for refreshments and drinks.
Arvi’s bananas
If you come across Arvi bananas, don’t hesitate to try them. These are Cretan bananas, very small in size but delicious. They are grown in the village of Arvi in southern Crete, some forty kilometers west of Ierapetra. They are often offered by roadside vendors.
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We wish you a pleasant stay in eastern Crete.
To discover Crete, these other articles may also be of interest to you:
- Western Crete in a week
- Itinerary in Southern Crete
- Crete’s most beautiful beaches
- Must-sees in Crete
Last but not least, a very big thank you to our friend Anastasia, who generously shared her favorites to help us discover the authentic, warm Crete she loves. Anastasia is a designer of accessories and gifts for children. Don’t hesitate to visit her online store. Everything is made by hand, with passion and love. Worldwide delivery.
Laure M.
Updated 31 January, 2024
