Discovering the wild and authentic south of Crete

Frangokastelo, South Crete
Frangokastelo, South Crete © Anastasia K.

Our friend Anastasia, from Crete, shares with us her favorite spots in southern Crete to discover the authentic, unspoilt Crete she loves so much.

With these few destinations, you can easily spend a week’s vacation in this southern part of Crete. As the crow flies, this region is not very far from Heraklion, but beware of the roads, as most of them are not very fast…. The number of kilometers is therefore not representative of travel time.

If you’re traveling in summer, be aware that it’s very hot in southern Crete, often at least three degrees warmer than in the north of the island.

If you are on vacation in Crete, these two other articles may be of interest to you:

Dive into authentic Crete: the village of Kouses

Anastasia suggests starting your vacation in southern Crete with a few days in the small village of Κousés (Κουσσές), about an hour’s drive from Heraklion. The village is nothing special, simple and small, but authentic. So of course there’s a Kafeneio. There’s no supermarket here, but a very interesting store called Votano and is very well known and appreciated by the French! At Votano, thousands of natural herbs to make herbal teas, handmade soaps, spices, Cretan herbs… In short, great fun! A must-see!

Near Kousés, you can also visit the archaeological site of Faistos (or Phaistos), one of the largest Minoan sites on the island. It’s an interesting place, less touristy than other archaeological sites in Crete. The panels provide high-quality explanations.

To sleep in Kousés, Anastasia recommends Bill and Maria’s house available on Airbnb. Here’s the link. Run by a friendly young Greek couple, this traditional stone house is warm and welcoming. Anastasia recommends this place for its quiet location and its easy access to some beautiful beaches.

If Bill and Maria’s house isn’t available, take a look at these four other housing options in Kousés :

=> You can also find other accommodation to stay in Kousés on the Booking site. Here’s our selection.

Kouses, village in South Crete
Kouses © Anastasia K.

Beautiful beaches in southern Crete

Agios Pavlos

Anastasia has fallen in love with Agios Pavlos beach (in the Prefecture of Rethymnon, an hour’s drive from Kousés). Total magic!!! Agios Pavlos actually has two beaches: the main one, which is very beautiful, and a second cove, a little hidden on the right, whose access is not very easy as you have to climb down some sand dunes…. This beach is a real paradise. The beach isn’t very busy, it’s not organized, but it’s ideal for yoga and relaxation! Unfortunately, when the wind blows, the sea can become dangerous.

Agios Pavlos in Crete
Eugeniy L, CC BY 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

Agiofarago beach (Αγιοφάραγγο)

Agiofarago (or Agiofaraggo Beach) is a sublime beach at the end of a small gorge. Please note that you’ll need to bring your own umbrellas and drinks, as there’s nothing on site. On the other hand, just before getting off, he has a small canteen with drinks and cold meals.

The gorge is small and takes about 20 minutes to descend (accessible to children). This beach is also known for camping. On the way down, there’s a small old church, Agios Antonios.

A word of advice: most of the descent into the gorge is by car, and the access road is very bad. Pebbles, rocks and dirt roads, impossible to drive more than 20km max….

South Crete: Matala and its beach

Located in the very south of Crete, Matala Beach is well known. In the 1960s-70s, hippies (flower children) made it famous the world over. They came to enjoy the natural environment and live in freedom, settling in the caves. In fact, they return here every summer for the Matala Festival, held on this famous beach with caves carved into the cliffs.

Matala is often described as a must-see destination in South Crete… Some will be disappointed, however, as this is a far cry from the image of authentic Crete. It has become a very touristy beach, and now you have to pay an entrance fee to visit the caves.

A word of advice: this beach is particularly beautiful at sunset. The sun’s fading rays are reflected on the walls, and the light is exceptional.

If you’re looking for a bite to eat or a drink, Anastasia recommends this tavern outside Matala, with a beautiful view: Panorama Café. The owner is a bit unusual, but everything is homemade. Great wood-fired pizza and delicious saganaki. The view is magnificent and it’s cool in summer. Its speciality is pasta, so try it out.

=> If you’d like to spend a night in Matala, here’s a selection of hotels on the Booking website. You’ll also find plenty of cool accommodations on Airbnb.

Vacations in authentic and wild South Crete
Matala, its caves and blue sea. And the view from the Panorama tavern © Anastasia K.

The Kapetaniana region, with a fabulous hotel

Still in the southern part of Crete, there’s also the Kapetaniana region. Very wild, to be recommended to all those who want to experience another authentic Crete , far from the tourist crowds.

Here, we recommend the Thalori Retreat, a pretty complex of renovated traditional houses perched on a mountain with a breathtaking view of the Libyan Sea. It’s a magnificent place, and you feel all alone in the world. Horseback riding, diving and mountain hiking are all available.

An excursion to Frangokastelo

Finally, round off your tour of southern Crete with a day or two in Frangokastelo (in the prefecture of Rethymnon), a small seaside village. It’s a must for those wishing to discover the authentic south of Crete, the wildest and most beautiful side of the island. The village boasts a beautiful Venetian castle, right next to the beach. This one is rich in history.

The beach at Frangokastelo is very beautiful, with an organized side and a wilder, shallower water….

The natural waterfalls of Argyroupoli, south crete
The natural waterfalls of Argyroupoli © Anastasia K.

On your way to Frangokastelo, stop off at Argyroupoli to admire the natural waterfalls. Enjoy a coffee or kontosouvli (spit-roasted pork) + sfakianes pites. These are a must-taste. These are a kind of Cretan pancake, made with Cretan cheese called myzithra and served with honey.

=> Frangokastello has some very nice accommodations and is a great place to stay for a day or two. Here is a selection of hotels. There are also some great apartments for rent on Airbnb (see selection).

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We hope you enjoy your stay in southern Crete.

To discover Crete, these two other articles may also be of interest to you:

Last but not least, a very big thank you to our friend Anastasia, who generously shared her favorites to help us discover the authentic, warm Crete she loves. Anastasia is a designer of accessories and gifts for children. Don’t hesitate to visit her online store. Everything is made by hand, with passion and love. Worldwide delivery.

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