Psyri: one of our favorite neighborhoods in Athens

One of our favorite district in Athens is undoubtedly Psyri (or Psiri). Psyri has gone through many ups and downs over the years before becoming a lively, trendy and highly enjoyable place to discover.

The Psyri district and its history

At the beginning of the 19th century, Psyri was a middle-class district, as evidenced by the many houses (now restored). The area was known as a haven for thinkers, writers and artists. It was here that Lord Byron stayed during his visits to Athens. In 1810, he wrote the poem “Maid of Athens”, dedicated to a young Athenian girl he had fallen in love with. The Psyri district is also known for having been the home of the famous Greek writer and novelist Alexandros Papadiamantis (1851-1911) for over twenty years.

The neighborhood then went through a darker period. A gang of mafiosi called “Koutsavakides” had settled there and were terrorizing the population. They were involved in all kinds of trafficking (drugs, gambling, theft, etc.). And the neighborhood was notorious for crime.

In the 20th century, despite being rid of the Koutsavakids, the district had not regained its superb appearance. Psyri was popular at the time. The locals work in workshops and warehouses, or in the nearby factories of Gazi. With the crisis, streets and houses are falling into disrepair.

It wasn’t until the 2000s that the neighborhood was given a new lease of life.

Psyri, a trendy neighborhood

Today, Psyri is a lively, dynamic place with lots of nice places to discover. With its narrow streets and small squares, cars aren’t welcome, and that’s just as well. Here and there you’ll still find ultra-specialized craft stores: rope, glass, baskets, haberdashery…

There are also a few streets where you’ll find beautiful second-hand shops (more authentic than those in Monastiraki).

It’s also a great place to admire street art. All you have to do is look up to admire the works of the graffiti artists.

Last but not least, it’s a must for Athenian nightlife. You can easily and safely go out to eat, drink, listen to music or go clubbing.

What to do in Psyri? Our top-10

Here are the 10 things we love to do in Psyri. Then it’s up to you to lose yourself as you please.

1. Strolling the second-hand streets (Ivis and Apostoli)

Less touristy than the antique dealers of Monastiraki, you’ll find many second-hand dealers in the streets of Psyri. And even if it’s not easy to bring back a chair or a desk, you may be seduced by the many antique and vintage objects.

2. Discover the secrets of making bougatsa…

And why not let yourself be seduced by a tasting session. These are very thin pastry puffs filled with vanilla cream. The Bougatsadiko café on Iroon Square demonstrates this, and they’re very good (on the map).

3. Buy sandals in Agias Theklas street

At Melissinos, you can have them made to measure for you. But you can also be tempted by Kallipous‘ trendy handmade sandals. (here on Google Maps)

4. Admire the street art murals

You’ll find street art on every street. The best-known is undoubtedly the one in Iroon Square, with the big-mouthed figures by Alexandros Vasmoulakis.

5. Pancakes at Little Kook

If you have young children, the Little Kook café is a must, especially for admiring the incredible, fairytale-like decor. Some might find it a bit “too much”, but all the same! Google Maps

6. Entering the Church of the Holy Anargyres

This pretty Byzantine church on Anargyri Square is dedicated to holy healers. You’ll see many people come in to meditate, and sometimes leave an ex-voto to ask for healing.

7. Enjoy an ice cream at Kokkion

It’s a tiny little store that doesn’t look like much, but they’re delicious! We particularly recommend the sorbets. You can find them here.

8. Have a drink in an ouzerie

To get your evening off to a good start, we recommend a small ouzo and mezze in one of Psyri’s ouzeries. You can visit the café Ivi or at Nikitas . It is not very expensive. To be enjoyed at leisure with a few mezzes.

9. Eating in a traditional tavern

Here, there are plenty of them in the side streets. We love Avli (in a small courtyard that reminds us of the Cyclades, here on the map) and also Atlantikos, go for the fried food platters (GoogleMaps).

10. And finally, a night out on the lively streets of Psyri

The choice is yours: nightclub or live concert. On Lepiniotou Street, you will find the club Death Disco. The Party Bar also offers live music (Jazz on Wednesdays and Pop/Rock at weekends).

Where to stay in Psyri?

Here are just a few of the hotels and aparthotels we’ve found. They allow you to be at your best to visit the city and enjoy the area.

• Live Athens: great little apartments or studios, very nicely refurbished.
• Athens 21: Very well located, good value for money
• Kerameion
• AthensLodge

And to discover other districts, you can read our following articles:

• Monastiraki
• Syntagma
• Plaka
• Metaxourghio

Sophie B.

Updated April 19, 2024